When my partner and I were considering a special trip to celebrate 40 years together, we immediately thought of touring France, but aside from Paris, we really had no idea where else to go. Since we are partial to cruising, we hadn’t done a DIY overland trip since a tour through Germany in 2012, so the idea of constantly uprooting ourselves was a bit daunting. We generally take long vacations (from three to four weeks) and we certainly had a lot of options in France, so armed with Google Maps, the French rail system website and a few travel guides, I set about planning what would turn out to be a fantastic trip.
We spent five days in Paris, exploring the city from our hotel base in the Pigalle district in the ninth arrondissement. The area has plenty of restaurants and clubs and is located just south of Montmartre and its famous marshmallow basilica, Sacré-Coeur. We were also within a block of a major Metro line, so travel across the city was effortless. We hit all the highlights of the city: the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Museé d’Orsay and all the famous neighbourhoods, such as the Latin Quarter, Le Marais and, of course, Montmartre. Our hotel included breakfast, so lunch was caught on the fly, but dinners were booked in advance.
Research and book your dinners in advance wherever possible Even old-school bouillon restaurants generally take reservations. If you happen to spot a cute bistro you’d like to try instead, simply cancel a reservation.
From Paris, we took an early morning train to Saint-Malo on the Brittany coast, where we spent four days. We were inspired to see Saint-Malo by the book “All the Light We Cannot See,” and we were enchanted. Our hotel, Hôtel Maison des Armateurs, was located inside the walls of the old city, and, immediately upon arrival, we walked the full length of the ramparts for spectacular views of the city and the sea.
We took a day trip by bus to visit Mont Saint-Michel, a magical commune and abbey, which was simply breathtaking — figuratively breathtaking for its stunning fortress and cathedral, and literally so, due to the many stairs and hills the visitor needs to climb inside the complex.
From Saint-Malo, we took the train to Tours, where we picked up a car at the train station to use for our five days in the Loire Valley. We chose Amboise as our home base as it was centrally located to all the chateaux we wished to visit and had its own impressive Château d’Amboise and Le Clos Lucé (Château du Clos Lucé), which was the last home of Leonardo da Vinci. Taking in two sites per day, we visited Chambord, Chenonceaux, Chaumont-sur-Loire, Azay-le-Rideau and Blois, enjoying the drives through the French countryside.
Use a Eurail pass to get around We used a six-day pass and made all our seat reservations in advance, which made travel a breeze.
Dropping the car back in Tours, we boarded our train to Lyon where we stayed in Vieux Lyon at a converted 18th-century university. L’Académie Hôtel Lyon was perfectly located in this incredibly walkable city. Again, we booked dinners at top bouchons and restaurants in advance and we were never disappointed. Between the gorgeous cathedrals, the unique museums and the food scene, Lyon was never a dull moment.
From Lyon, we travelled to Avignon for four days, again staying in the old historic area within the ramparts. Just blocks from the Palace of the Popes (Palais des Papes), Le Limas was an exquisitely run, quiet B and B. We took a day trip by train from here to Arles to see the Roman ruins of the arena and theatres as well as some of Van Gogh’s famous scenes he painted here.
By bus, we travelled further into Provence and stayed four days in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, arriving during their Fête Votive (votive festival). Here, we immersed ourselves in the lore of Van Gogh, visiting many scenes he painted and even the asylum where he spent a year following his self-mutilation. The Van Gogh walk is marked with easels and prints of his works completed in the area. There’s even the site archéologique de Glanum, a large archeological park, where the ruins of a Greco-Roman city have been unearthed.
Research what may be happening Local festivals can add a lot of colour to your vacation, so plan your itinerary to include these where you can.
Finally, we travelled to the Mediterranean coast and the city of Marseille, the oldest continuously inhabited city in France with a history that dates to 600 B.C. Our hotel, La Residence du Vieux Port, was wonderful and the balcony offered sweeping views of the port and Notre-Dame de la Garde standing formidably on a distant hill. The beaches are very accessible by short bus ride and the city is chock full of nightlife, restaurants, museums and historical sights.
Careful planning made this trip go off without a hitch, but these cities themselves made it unforgettable.
